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A Beginner’s Guide to Every Rolex Model

by Andy Jones on Aug 14, 2024

A Beginner’s Guide to Every Rolex Model

Rolex is a name that speaks for itself. It's not just the most recognized watchmaker in the world but also one of the most famous luxury brands in history. If you're getting your first luxury watch, it might be a Rolex. While specific models, like the Daytona, often steal the spotlight, there's much more to explore in the Rolex lineup.

Rolex offers a diverse collection of watches designed to suit different personalities and styles. To help you find the perfect Rolex, here's a beginner's guide to every Rolex model in this watchmaker's collection.

Professional Rolex Models

Rolex has created many impressive watch collections that consistently stand out among other luxury timepieces. The brand's exceptional quality and high standards make their watches highly sought after, with some people even willing to wait several years to get the model they want.

So, what are the professional Rolex models that have been constantly trending in the watch world for decades?

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

The Daytona is one of the most iconic luxury timepieces ever made. Originally designed for high-speed racing, it became famous for its three-subdial design, engraved bezel, and precise 4130 calibre. 

What really sets the Daytona apart is its connection to Hollywood legend Paul Newman, who was so closely associated with the watch that a special dial was named after him. Rolex updated the entire collection in 2023. The platinum Ref. 126506 is the standout model from this update.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 40mm

Rolex Platinum Cosmograph Daytona 40 Watch - Ice Blue Index Dial - 126506-0001
  • Ref: 126506
  • Case/Dial: Platinum, ice blue sunray gloss dial, chestnut brown Cerachrom bezel, water-resistant to 100m (10 bar)
  • Movement: Rolex calibre 4131, automatic mechanical chronograph, 72-hour power reserve
  • Strap: Platinum bracelet

Rolex Submariner

    The Submariner is the ultimate dive watch and a Rolex icon. Launched in 1953, it’s known as the first true water-resistant watch and helped establish Rolex's reputation. It remains the gold standard for dive watches with features like a unidirectional rotating bezel, rugged case, and 300m water resistance.

    The Submariner is also highly versatile, with a clean dial design and various metal and color options, including the famous royal blue. The latest redesign offers a slightly larger 41mm case, a slimmer profile, and updated hands. 

    You can choose between a time-only model with the 3230 calibre or a date version with the 3235 calibre, both offering a 70-hour power reserve.

    Rolex Submariner 41mm

    Rolex Submariner No Date Stainless Steel Black Dial 41mm - 124060
    • Ref: 124060
    • Case/Dial: Oystersteel, black dial, water-resistant to 300m (30 bar)
    • Movement: Superlative Chronometer certified (COSC + Rolex certification), Rolex calibre 3230, automatic, 70-hour power reserve
    • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

    Rolex Submariner Date 41mm

    Rolex Submariner 41mm Date "Kermit" Stainless Steel Green Bezel - 126610LV MK2
    • Ref: 126610LV
    • Case/Dial: Oystersteel, black dial, water-resistant to 300m (30 bar)
    • Movement: Rolex calibre 3235, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 70-hour power reserve
    • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

    Rolex Sea-Dweller

      The Submariner set the standard for dive watches, but in 1967, the Sea-Dweller took it to new depths—1,220 meters, to be exact. The Sea-Dweller used to include the Deepsea models, but in 2024, Rolex separated them into their own collection, leaving the Sea-Dweller with just one model available in two color options.

      The Sea-Dweller resembles the Submariner in style but has a larger, bulkier case and extra water resistance, thanks to Rolex’s patented Ringlock system. It is slightly bigger at 43mm. 

      While it’s less versatile than the Submariner, with only black and blue dials, its robust design is perfect for extreme underwater conditions.

      Rolex Sea-Dweller 43mm

      Rolex Steel and Yellow Gold Rolesor Sea-Dweller - Black Dial 126603
      • Ref: 126603
      • Case/Dial: Oystersteel with yellow gold, black dial, water-resistant to 1,200m (120 bar)
      • Movement: Rolex calibre 3235, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 70-hour power reserve
      • Strap: Yellow Rolesor bracelet

      Rolex’s Deepsea

        Rolex’s Deepsea watches, once part of the Sea-Dweller line, have recently become their own collection. The Deepsea series includes the standard edition and the Deepsea Challenge, pushing Rolex’s depth ratings to the extreme. 

        In 2024, Rolex added a touch of luxury to these rugged divers with a full gold edition featuring a blue dial. It’s hard to imagine anyone taking a gold watch down to 3,900m, but Rolex made it possible.

        The Deepsea Challenge is a massive 50mm watch built to withstand incredible depths and has a water resistance of up to 11,000m. It was also Rolex’s first titanium watch, introducing this lightweight, durable, and corrosion-resistant material to their lineup.

        Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller 44mm

        Rolex Deepsea 44mm Blue Dial Blue Cerachrom Bezel Oyster Bracelet - 136668LB | 2024 Model
        • Ref: 136668LB
        • Case/Dial: Yellow gold with a blue dial, water-resistant up to 3,900m (390 bar)
        • Movement: Rolex calibre 3235, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 70-hour power reserve
        • Strap: Yellow gold bracelet

        Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea Challenge

        • Ref: 126067
        • Case/Dial: RLX titanium case with a matte black dial, water-resistant up to 11,000m (110 bar)
        • Movement: Rolex calibre 3230, automatic, COSC-certified, 70-hour power reserve
        • Strap: Titanium bracelet

        Rolex Yacht-Master

          As the name suggests, the Rolex Yacht-Master is made for life on the water, perfect for sailing on the high seas. While it's built for nautical adventures, it's not meant for deep dives like some other Rolex models. It can handle a splash, but if scuba diving is your thing, you might want to look at the Submariner instead.

          The Yacht-Master stands out as the only Rolex with a rotating bezel made from precious metal, adding a touch of luxury perfect for a yacht party. Yet, it's also a functional tool, easy to use and read, especially with the Yacht-Master 42, which introduced RLX Titanium to the lineup. 

          In 2024, Rolex discontinued the Yacht-Master II, leaving the original Yacht-Master to fill a niche that the Submariner’s superior diving specs could also cover.

          Rolex Yacht-Master 40mm

          Rolex Everose Gold Yacht-Master 40 Watch - Black Dial - Oysterflex Strap - 126655 bk
          • Ref: 126655
          • Case/Dial: Everose gold with a black dial, water-resistant up to 100m (10 bar)
          • Movement: Rolex calibre 3235, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 70-hour power reserve
          • Strap: Oysterflex bracelet

          Rolex Yacht-Master 42mm

          • Ref: 226627-0001
          • Case/Dial: RLX titanium with a black dial, water-resistant up to 100m (10 bar)
          • Movement: Rolex calibre 3235, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 70-hour power reserve
          • Strap: Oysterflex bracelet

          Rolex GMT-Master II

            Originally designed for pilots, the GMT-Master was the first wristwatch to track two time zones, using a 24-hour hand and a rotating bezel. The modern GMT-Master II improved this feature, allowing the 24-hour hand to be set separately from the 12-hour hand, letting you track three time zones at once.

            The most iconic version is the ‘Pepsi’ with its blue and red bezel. Other popular color combinations include the brown and black ‘Root Beer,’ the red and black ‘Coke,’and the blue and black ‘Batman.’ These bezels are now made from durable Cerachrom, replacing the fragile Bakelite of the originals. 

            Recently, Rolex introduced a left-handed model with a green and black bezel, and the latest addition is a sleek black and grey version in steel. With its Cyclops magnifier for the date, the GMT-Master II remains a symbol of jet-setting style.

            Rolex GMT-Master II 40mm

            Rolex Steel GMT-Master II 40 Watch - Blue And Red Pepsi Bezel - Black Dial - Jubilee Bracelet - 126710BLRO
            • Ref: 126710BLRO
            • Case/Dial: Oystersteel, black dial with 100m water resistance
            • Movement: Rolex calibre 3285, automatic with GMT function, Superlative Chronometer, 70-hour power reserve
            • Strap: Oystersteel Jubilee bracelet

            Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

            Rolex GMT-Master II 40MM 126720VTNR Sprite Jubilee Black Dial 2022 - New Model
            • Ref: 126720VTNR
            • Case/Dial: Oystersteel, black dial with 100m water resistance
            • Movement: Rolex calibre 3285, automatic with GMT function, Superlative Chronometer, 70-hour power reserve
            • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

            Rolex Air-King

              Clear visibility is crucial in the cockpit, and the Air-King delivers exactly that. Introduced in 1958, it builds on Rolex’s history of aviation watches dating back to the 1930s. 

              The modern Air-King stands out with its black and white dial, featuring oversized 3, 6, and 9 numerals for easy reading. In 2022, it was updated with crown guards, a modern movement, and an improved minute track design.

              Although it’s 40mm, smaller than many pilot watches, its clarity is unmatched. The green hour hand adds a unique touch, making it one of Rolex’s most elegant and versatile professional watches.

              Rolex Air-King 40mm

              Rolex Air King Oystersteel 40MM 126900 2022 - New Model
              • Ref: 126900
              • Case/Dial: Oystersteel, black lacquered dial with 100m water resistance
              • Movement: Rolex calibre 3230, Superlative Chronometer, 70-hour power reserve
              • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

              Classic Rolex Models

              Rolex’s "Classic" line features watches that carry the brand’s signature blend of elegance, durability, and timeless design. These classic models are built to last and maintain a sophisticated appearance.

              Here are the models in this classic line:

              Rolex Datejust

              The Datejust symbolizes elegance and is one of Rolex’s most versatile models. Introduced in 1945 to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary, it was the first automatic watch with a date window. The date window initially changed gradually before midnight, but since 1955, the change has been instantaneous.

              Today’s Datejust remains as stylish as ever. It is offered in sizes from 31mm to 41mm, with a variety of dial colors and precious metal options. The bezel choices include plain, crimped, or diamond-set. A standout model is the yellow gold Rolesor with an olive green dial, crimped bezel, and jubilee bracelet.

              Rolex Datejust 31mm

              • Ref: 278274
              • Case/Dial: The case is made of oyster steel and white gold, and the dial is Azzurro blue, featuring a floral motif and diamond hour markers. It is also 100m water resistant.
              • Movement: Rolex calibre 2236, automatic, Superlative Chronometer certified, 55-hour power reserve.
              • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet.

              Rolex Datejust 36mm

              Rolex Datejust 41mm Stainless Steel Mens Watch 126234 Green Fluted Dial with Oyster Bracelet
              • Ref: 126234
              • Case/Dial: Oystersteel with a mint green dial; 100m water resistance.
              • Movement: Rolex calibre 3235, automatic, Superlative Chronometer certified, 70-hour power reserve.
              • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet.

              Rolex Day-Date

                The Rolex Day-Date, launched in 1956, was the first watch to display both the date and full day on its dial. Known as the "President" watch, it became a symbol of prestige and power, especially among world leaders. 

                While it now comes in a larger 40mm and features the advanced 3255 movement, its core design remains the same, and it is available only in precious metals.

                In 2023, Rolex introduced a playful 36mm version with a colorful jigsaw puzzle enamel dial featuring positive affirmations and emojis, offering a fresh twist on this classic, traditionally refined timepiece.

                Rolex Day-Date 36mm

                Rolex Day-Date 36 36mm Green Ombré Diamond-Set Dial Fluted Bezel with Diamond-Set President Bracelet - 128238 | 2024 Model
                • Ref: 128238
                • Case/Dial: 18k yellow gold with a green ombré dial set with diamonds; 100m water resistance.
                • Movement: Rolex calibre 3255, automatic, Superlative Chronometer certified, 70-hour power reserve.
                • Strap: 18k yellow gold bracelet.

                Rolex Day-Date 40mm

                Rolex Day-Date 40 Ice-Blue Dial Dial Fluted Bezel Platinum President Men's Watch 228236
                • Ref: 228236
                • Case/Dial: Platinum with an ice blue dial; 100m water resistance.
                • Movement: Rolex calibre 3255, automatic, Superlative Chronometer certified (COSC + Rolex certification), 70-hour power reserve.
                • Strap: Platinum bracelet.

                Rolex Oyster Perpetual

                  The Oyster Perpetual is a modern nod to the first Rolex, tracing its roots back to 1926 when Rolex created the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. It embodies the brand's timeless blend of practicality and elegance.

                  While maintaining its minimalist design, Rolex has introduced vibrant dial colors like olive green, blue, and turquoise. In 2023, they even launched a Celebration dial that mixes multiple colors, available in 31mm, 36mm, and 41mm sizes. 

                  With options ranging from 28mm to 41mm and powered by reliable in-house movements, the Oyster Perpetual represents the essence of Rolex craftsmanship.

                  Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28mm

                  Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28 Watch - Domed Bezel - Blue Index Dial - Oyster Bracelet - 2020 Release - 276200 bluio
                  • Ref: 276200
                  • Case/Dial: Oystersteel and bright blue dial with 100m water resistance
                  • Movement: Rolex calibre 2232, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 55h power reserve
                  • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

                  Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31mm

                  • Ref: 277200
                  • Case/Dial: Oystersteel and turquoise blue dial with 100m water resistance
                  • Movement: Rolex calibre 2232, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 55h power reserve
                  • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

                  Rolex Sky-Dweller

                    If the GMT-Master II is for those who fly planes, the Sky-Dweller is for those who fly first class. Instead of a rotating bezel for tracking a second time zone, the Sky-Dweller uses a rotating disc at 6 o’clock. It also features a sophisticated annual calendar.

                    The date is displayed with a red rectangle moving between hour markers, and the entire calendar system is easily adjusted using the crown and the unique command bezel. The basic Sky-Dweller has 11 patents for its innovative features.

                    For 2024, the Sky-Dweller’s precious metal models got updated with golden Jubilee bracelets, keeping the same elegant design with its signature display and fluted bezel.

                    Rolex Sky-Dweller

                    Rolex Sky Dweller 42 Mint Green Dial Stainless Steel Oyster Mens Watch 336934
                    • Ref: 336934
                    • Case/Dial: Oystersteel with 18k white gold, mint green dial and 100m water resistance
                    • Movement: Rolex calibre 9002, automatic with dual time zones and annual calendar, Superlative Chronometer, 72h power reserve
                    • Strap: Oystersteel three-link bracelet

                    Discontinued Models

                    Rolex, known for its classic and well-crafted watches, occasionally discontinues a few models. This is usually done to update their collection, adapt to new technologies, or meet changing market trends. 

                    Following are a few discontinued Rolex models.

                    Rolex Milgauss

                    The Milgauss was designed to resist strong magnetic fields up to 1,000 Gauss, making it popular with scientists at places like CERN. Its standout features include a unique lime green sapphire bezel, a lightning bolt second hand, and a bright orange contrast against a blue dial.

                    This model is one of Rolex's most distinctive, combining modern design with practical functionality. However, as of 2023, the Milgauss has been discontinued, which is a loss for those who appreciate its unique style and innovation.

                    With the rise of anti-magnetic watches, the Milgauss' unique feature is no longer as distinctive as it once was. As of 2023, the model has been discontinued, which is a real loss since it was one of the most fascinating watches in Rolex’s history.

                    Rolex Milgauss 40mm

                    Rolex Milgauss Oyster 40MM 116400GV Blue Dial 2022 - New Model
                    • Ref: 116400GV
                    • Case/Dial: Oystersteel with Z-blue dial and 100m (10 bar) water resistance
                    • Movement: Rolex calibre 3131, automatic with magnetic shield, Superlative Chronometer, 48h power reserve
                    • Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

                    Rolex Cellini 

                      Rolex typically focuses on modern designs and functionality rather than traditional complications. However, the Cellini collection stands out as Rolex’s tribute to classical watchmaking. Named after the Renaissance artist Benvenuto Cellini, it featured elegant touches like guilloché patterns and a moonphase complication, along with a fluted crown.

                      Many Cellini models have been discontinued recently, with the last one being the Cellini Moonphase, which has also now been retired. The Cellini was perfect for those who loved Rolex’s brand and traditional Swiss craftsmanship, and its legacy continues with the Perpetual 1908.

                      Rolex Cellini Moonphase 39mm

                      Rolex Cellini Moonphase Watch - Everose Gold - White Dial - Tobacco Leather Strap - 50535 wbr
                      • Ref: 50535
                      • Case/Dial: 18k Everose gold, white dial with moonphase at 6 o'clock, 50m water resistance
                      • Movement: Rolex calibre 3195, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, 48h power reserve
                      • Strap: Tobacco leather

                      Rolex Yacht-Master II

                        The Yacht-Master II may not be Rolex's most stylish watch, but it plays a unique role in their lineup as a regatta timer. This function helps yachts time their starts in races with a countdown timer. With no regatta timer available in the current Yacht-Master collection or elsewhere in Rolex’s range, some might wonder why not just opt for a Submariner instead.

                        The watch is powered by the calibre 4161, an automatic movement designed specifically for regatta timing. Its combination of a white dial, blue bezel, red accents, and Rolesor case gives it a distinctive nautical look.

                        Rolex Yacht-Master II 44mm

                        Rolex Steel Yacht-Master II 44 Watch - White Dial - 116681
                        • Ref: 116681
                        • Case/Dial: Oystersteel with 18k Everose gold, white dial, 100m water resistance
                        • Movement: Rolex calibre 4161, automatic regatta chronograph, Superlative Chronometer, 72h power reserve
                        • Strap: Oystersteel and 18k Everose gold three-link bracelet

                        Conclusion

                        In conclusion, exploring every Rolex model can be exciting, especially with so many iconic timepieces to choose from. Whether you're drawn to the Datejust's timeless elegance, the Submariner's rugged durability, or the Day-Date's precision, there's a Rolex for every style and purpose.

                        Time Source Jewelers is here to help you find the perfect Rolex that matches your taste and lifestyle. With our expert guidance and wide selection, you're sure to find the watch that’s right for you.

                        So why wait? Contact us today!